Fiddler on the Roof

Have you had a feeling lately that whenever you’re out at these swanky eating places, those moments of stunned silence were not exactly being directed at that mutt on the next table? Have there been increased incidents of collected intakes of breath while you pulverised your pasta with the butter knife – or better still – while you were busy slurping up those dregs from your tilted soup bowl with the desert spoon? Well pal, even if you don’t, we think it’s time we gave you a few pointers on fine dining. And while we’re at it, why not start with napkins?

Napkins, or serviettes, traditionally originated in the city of Rheims, noted for its fine cloth. Research has shown that 15th century table linen included long and narrow runners, which were laid over the table cloth to protect it. Diners were expected to wipe their hands on these. Italian inventories of the same period mention guarda nappi or ‘cloth protectors’, narrow pieces of cloth that were stored in sets of six. Individual silk and linen napkins became fashionable in France towards the end of the 15th century. The rules of etiquette in the placement of napkins varied with fashion in clothing. When ruffled collars were in vogue, men knotted their napkins around their necks; and later they tucked them into collars to protect laced shirtfronts.

A few dos and don’ts:

• The napkin or serviette should be taken off the table as soon as you are seated for dining.

• Napkins should never be tucked into shirt collars or belts. They should always be spread on your lap. If it is small, you may open it out fully. If it is large, it should be kept folded in half with the fold towards you.

• If the napkin happens to drop on to the floor, never feel around for it under the table. Retrieve it only if it has fallen quite close by you. It is best to just let it be and ask for another.

• If you must leave the table – for, say, the buffet area – and are going to return, never re-fold your serviette. Place it to the right of your plate or better still, leave it on the seat of your chair.

• Never use your napkin like a handkerchief. Use finger bowls and avoid leaving haldi stains on them. Women should never leave lipstick marks on them either. Simply use the napkin-ends to dab the corners of your mouth.

• When you leave the table, simply pick up your serviette by the centre and place it loosely to the left of your plate. Do not re-fold it or it might be mistaken for a fresh one.
  
  Inputs: Saon Bhattacharya
  Photographs: Naveesh Tejpal